We moved the stove to the far wall, to make more room in the eat-in area of the kitchen. This needed running a brand-new gas line to power the range (the old stove was electrical) in addition to rerouting ventilation for the hood vent. Initially, we pulled everything out. I had actually rearranged all of the cabinetry digitally on AutoCAD initially to make certain I could get the footprint I wanted without physically rearranging them in location.
Next, I removed the hardware from the doors and drawers, and filled the holes where the drawer pulls and door knobs utilized to be, because we planned to use brand-new ones with different accessory points. To fill the holes, I used Plastic Wood brand wood filler, which dries within 15 minutes. kitchen paint colors with light gray cabinets.
The most crucial action of painting your cabinets is cleaning them effectively very first. Utilize a degreasing cleaning agent in your water and a non-scratch, yet abrasive pad (something you may use to clean a non-stick skillet), and truly scrub hard! I thought I had actually cleaned my cabinets effectively, but after painting, I noticed a couple of grease dots that were revealing through the paint.
So, please take it from memake sure your cabinets are super tidy prior to painting. After rinsing and drying the cabinets, I started painting with the chalk paint, without sanding or using a primer. I was surprised at how thick the chalk paint went on, and how rapidly it dried (krylon transitions kitchen cabinet paint kit). I had the ability to paint a coat, and instantly begin another.
After the light sanding, the paint surface was so silky smoothyou 'd never ever understand there was oak below! Typically, chalk paint is ended up with wax, but because kitchen area cabinets get such heavy wear, I wished to use a finish that would not need maintenance - modern painted china cabinet. My go-to wood sealer is polyurethane, but it's a surface that notoriously yellows.
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So I used a water-based Polycrylic rather, which doesn't use urethane as a hardener, so it won't yellow in time. I brushed three coats of Polycrylic onto the cabinet bases, and sprayed three coats onto the doors and drawers. It took two 1/2 pints to cover the cabinet base and island, and three bottles to spray the doors and drawers.
They came unfinished, so I utilized Minwax's natural stain and sealed with a couple of coats of polyurethane. I utilized polyurethane instead of Polycrylic, because it isn't water-based and will stand up to being wiped and handles constantly, while I am a bit concerned about how Polycrylic may potentially become tacky after years of wiping and dealing with (kitchen cabinet refinishing paint).
Chalk paint dries quickly. Chalk paint is thick and needs less coats of paint. There's no requirement to prime. If painted over already sealed wood, tannins of the wood will not seep into the white paint, triggering brownish spots. Chalk paint will hide greatly grained wood like oak. Chalk paint is thick and leaves brush marks.
However this requires you to have additional on hand for touch-ups. It is difficult to hide the tannins when painting over locations that have actually been freshly sanded and not sealed, like the locations around the hardware holes I filled. These areas required a couple of extra coats of paint, though guide might be more efficient at doing this.
Chalk paint can't be brushed on as equally as latex paint can be sprayed on. Some edges of my doors and drawers have thicker coats of paint and practically globby areas, though I took care not to put it on too thick. The paint finish will be really smooth and even, if done the appropriate way.